Every job below is one we do ourselves across Lubbock.
A driveway takes the most abuse of any slab on your property, tires turning in the same spot, trucks parked overnight, de-icer in a bad winter. We run 4 inches of concrete minimum over compacted base rock, with rebar instead of mesh for anything wide enough to carry a vehicle. We cut control joints the same day we finish so the slab cracks along the joint, not across the middle of your driveway.
Patios need to slope away from the house, about a quarter inch per foot, or you'll be dealing with water at your back door after every storm. We can leave the finish broom-swept plain or add color and a stamped pattern if you want something closer to stone. Either way, we set the forms and check the pitch before we ever mix a truck.
Stamped concrete gets you the look of flagstone, brick or slate without individual pavers to level or weeds coming up between joints. We color and stamp while the concrete is still plastic, which gives us maybe an hour before that window closes. It costs more than a plain broom finish, but a lot less than real stone laid piece by piece.
Not every cracked slab has to come out. A hairline crack that isn't moving can usually be routed and filled, but a slab that's heaved or settled more than an inch is a tear-out. We'll tell you which one you've got before we quote the job, not after.
Sidewalks get less thickness than a driveway, usually 3 to 4 inches, but they still need a compacted base or they'll heave with the clay just like anything else. We match the score pattern and joint spacing to whatever's already on the property so a repair section doesn't stick out.
We pour slab foundations for sheds, small additions and detached garages. A level, properly compacted footing matters more here than anywhere else, since everything built on top depends on it staying flat. We check grade with a laser level, not a guess.
Steps have to meet a consistent rise and run or somebody trips on the one that's different. We form and pour steps and small porches to match the slope of the yard and the height of the door threshold, and we broom or stamp the finish to match the rest of the property.
If the slab underneath is still structurally sound but ugly, cracked at the surface or just dated, an overlay can resurface it without a full tear-out. It's a thinner layer bonded to the old concrete, colored or stamped to look new. It won't fix a slab that's actively heaving, and we'll say so if that's what we find.
A gravel pad works until the first rain turns it to mud under your RV or tractor. We pour a reinforced slab sized to whatever you're parking on it, with the base compacted to carry that weight without settling on one corner.
Sometimes the fastest fix for a slab that's cracked in six places is to break it out and start over. We saw-cut and remove the old concrete, haul it off, and re-grade the base before we pour again. It costs more up front than patching, but a patched slab with bad base underneath will crack again within a couple of years.
Four steps, and no surprises in any of them.
You tell us what you want doing, we look at what is actually there, and we ask the awkward questions early.
In writing, itemised, free. If something might add cost later we flag it now rather than at the end.
Same crew throughout. We cover your floors, keep the dust down and tidy up before we leave each day.
You point out anything you are not happy with and we fix it before the invoice, not after.
A few driveways, patios and repairs we've poured around Lubbock.



We haul concrete trucks and crews to Lubbock and the towns around it.
Questions that usually come up once a project's underway.
Describe the problem and we will tell you what it probably is. No obligation.